儒林“衣冠”与细节描写的体系化——以《儒林外史》为中心

文艺理论研究

儒林“衣冠”与细节描写的体系化——以《儒林外史》为中心

刘紫云

北京工商大学艺术与传媒学院

出版日期:2018-09-25 发布日期:2018-10-22
作者简介:刘紫云，文学博士，北京工商大学艺术与传媒学院讲师，主要从事古代小说与明清文学研究。
基金资助:
北京工商大学青年教师科研启动基金“中国古代小说日常物象描写研究”[项目编号：QNJJ2016-03]的成果

Scholars' Caps in Unoffical History of the Scholars: Rereading Details from a Holistic Perspective

Liu Ziyun

School of Arts and Communication, Beijing Technology and Business University

Online:2018-09-25 Published:2018-10-22
About author:Liu Ziyun, Ph.D., is an assistant professor at the School of Arts and Communication, Beijing Technology and Business University. She specializes in pre-modern Chinese literature and culture, especially fiction and drama of the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Supported by:
Junior Faculty Fellowship of BTBU (QNJJ2016-03)

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 本文以《儒林外史》服饰描写中的头衣（俗称“帽子”）为研究对象，探讨这一细节与小说情节结构、主题思想之关系。通过对头衣类型及其特征的分析可知，为了照应小说“托明写清”这一时间框架，吴敬梓基本以明代服制礼仪为蓝本描写士林衣冠服饰；人物头衣是否与身份相符，成为吴敬梓观察士人群体言行出处的切入点之一。本文总结了与头衣密切相关的两类小说情节，讨论吴敬梓如何借由这一细节呈现科举制度下鱼龙混杂的士林圈和壁垒森严的士人内部分层。此外，本文还进一步指出，作为吴敬梓“春秋笔法”的一部分，有关头衣的细节还被整合到小说家对儒礼议题的思考中，呈现出体系化的艺术效果。

关键词: 《儒林外史》, 服饰, 帽子, 头衣, 细节, 体系

Abstract: This article studies descriptions of scholars' caps in Unoffical History of the Scholars and investigates how this seemingly trivial detail connects to plot structure and the ideology of the novel. By examining types of caps, this article points out that although the novel potentially deals with scholars of the Qing, when it comes to describing their costumes Wu Jingzi refers to costume rituals of the Ming so as to strictly fit in the background of the Ming. This article illustrates how Wu Jingzi weaves details about caps into two main types of plot concerning disorder and chaos among literati circles and their living conditions within the hierarchical imperial examination system. In conclusion, the cap not only plays a positive role in structuring plot but also is well organized in a holistic perspective to reflect Wu Jingzi's contemplation on Confucian rituals.

Key words: Unoffical History of the Scholars, caps, costume, details, holistic perspective

刘紫云 . 儒林“衣冠”与细节描写的体系化——以《儒林外史》为中心 [J]. 文艺理论研究.

Liu Ziyun . Scholars' Caps in Unoffical History of the Scholars: Rereading Details from a Holistic Perspective[J]. Theoretical Studies in Literature and Art.

[1]陈建高汝栻吴桢:《皇明通纪法传全录》, 《续修四库全书》第357册。上海:上海古籍出版社, 2002年。[Chen, Jian, Gao Rushi, and Wu Zhen. Comprehensive Imperial Records and Laws of the Ming. The Continuation of The Complete Collection of the Four Treasuries. Vol. 357. Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2002.] [2]陈美林:《陈批儒林外史》。北京:商务印书馆, 2014年。[Chen, Meilin. Chen's Commentary on Unoffical History of the Scholars. Beijing:The Commercial Press, 2014.] [3]褚人获:《坚瓠集》第三册。上海:上海古籍出版社, 2012年。[Chu, Renhuo. Miscellaneous Notes of Hard Gourd. Vol. 3.Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2012.] [4]范濂:《云间据目抄》。奉贤褚氏重刊本, 1928年。[Fan, Lian. Transcript of What I Saw in Yunjian. Reprint by the Chu family in Fengxian, 1928.] [5]黄秉泽:“论《儒林外史》的长篇艺术结构”, 《儒林外史研究论文集》, 李汉秋编。北京:中华书局, 1987年。482 —97。[Huang, Bingze.“On the Artistic Structure of the Fulllength Novel Unoffical History of the Scholars.”Collected Papers on Unoffical History of the Scholars. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1987. 482-97.] [6]兰陵笑笑生:《金瓶梅词话》上下册。北京:人民文学出版社, 2000年。[Lanling Xiaoxiao Sheng. The Plum in the Golden Vase.Vols. 1&2. Beijing:People's Literature Publishing House, 2000.] [7]刘红军:《〈儒林外史〉明代背景问题研究》。北京:中国文联出版社, 2011年。[Liu, Hongjun. A Study of the Ming Dynasty Background in Unoffical History of the Scholars. Beijing:China Federation of Literary and Art Circles Publishing House, 2011.] [8]刘廷玑:《在园杂志》。北京:中华书局, 2005年。[Liu, Tingji. A Miscellaneous Note of Liu Tingji. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 2005.] [9]刘勇强:《中国古代小说史叙论》。北京:北京大学出版社, 2007年。[Liu, Yongqiang. History of Ancient Chinese Fiction.Beijing:Peking University Press, 2007.] [10]鲁迅:《中国小说史略》。北京:人民文学出版社, 2006年。[Lu, Xun. A Brief History of Chinese Fiction. Beijing:People's Literature Publishing House, 2006.] [11]陆应阳蔡方炳:《广舆记》, 《四库禁毁书丛刊》史部第18册。北京:北京出版社, 1997年。[Lu, Yingyang, and Cai Fangbing. Geographical Handbook of Late Imperial China. Books Listed as“To Be Banned or Destroyed”by the Editors of The Complete Collection of the Four Treasuries:Histories. Vol. 18. Beijing:Beijing Publishing House, 1997.] [12]申时行等:《大明会典》, 《续修四库全书》第789 —792册。上海:上海古籍出版社, 2002年。[Shen, Shixing, et al.. Collected Regulations of the Great Ming. The Continuation of The Complete Collection of the Four Treasuries. Vol. 789-792. Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2002.] [13]宋濂:《宋濂全集》第三册。杭州:浙江古籍出版社, 1999年。[Song, Lian. The Complete Works of Song Lian. Vol. 3.Hangzhou:Zhejiang Ancient Books Publishing House, 1999.] [14]苏轼:《苏轼诗集》第四十一卷。北京:中华书局, 1982年。[Su, Shi. Collected Poetry of Su Shi. Vol. 41. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1982.] [15]脱脱:《金史》第三册。北京:中华书局, 1975年。[Toqto'a. History of Jin. Vol. 3. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1975.] [16]吴敬梓等:《儒林外史汇校汇评》, 李汉秋辑校。上海:上海古籍出版社, 2010年。[Wu, Jingzi, et al.. A Collection of Collation and Commentary on Unoffical History of the Scholars. Ed. Li Hanqiu. Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2010.] [17]吴组缃:“《儒林外史》的思想和艺术”, 《儒林外史研究论文集》, 李汉秋编。北京:中华书局, 1987年。4 —39。[Wu, Zuxiang.“The Thought and Art of Unoffical History of the Scholars.”Collected Papers on Unoffical History of the Scholars. Ed. Li Hanqiu. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1987. 4-39.] [18]徐珂:《清稗类钞》第十三册。北京:中华书局, 1985年。[Xu, Ke. Classified Collection of Qing Notes. Vol. 13.Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1985.] [19]徐树丕:《识小录》, 《涵芬楼祕笈》第一集。上海:上海商务印书馆, 1916年。[Xu, Shupi. Records of Little Knowledge. Han Fen House Secret. Vol. 1. Shanghai:Shanghai Commercial Press, 1916.] [20]叶梦珠:《阅世编》。上海:上海古籍出版社, 2007年。[Ye, Mengzhu. Records throughout a Lifetime. Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2007.] [21]赵尔巽等:《清史稿》第十一册。北京:中华书局, 1976—1977年。[Zhao, Erxun, et al.. Draft History of Qing. Vol. 11.Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1976-1977.] [22]张廷玉等:《明史》第六册。北京:中华书局, 1974年。[Zhang, Tingyu, et al.. History of Ming. Vol. 6. Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company, 1974.] [23]左懋第:《左忠贞公剩稿》, 《山东文献集成》第三辑第二十六册。济南:山东大学出版社, 2009年。[Zuo, Maodi. Remaining Drafts of Zuo Maodi. Collection of Shandong Literature. Series 3, Vol. 26. Ji'nan:Shandong University Press, 2009.]