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文艺理论研究

文艺理论研究 ›› 2021, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (6): 194-201.

• 专题：文艺美学问题研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

翻转与颠覆： 奢侈消费历史变迁的内在逻辑与文化动力

蒋诗萍   

  1. 上海财经大学人文学院
  • 出版日期:2021-11-25 发布日期:2021-12-16
  • 作者简介:蒋诗萍，文学博士，上海财经大学人文学院讲师。主要从事符号学与文化理论研究。
  • 基金资助:
    国家社科基金青年项目“中国品牌国际传播中的文化符号生产与认同机制研究”［项目编号： 17CXW023］上海财经大学教学创新团队项目“全球化、网络化时代财经新闻人才培养模式研究”［项目编号： 20161103397］

Reversion and Subversion: The Internal Logic and Cultural Dynamics of the Historical Transformation of Luxury Consumption

Jiang Shiping   

  1. School of Humanities, Shanghai University of Finance and Economics
  • Online:2021-11-25 Published:2021-12-16
  • About author:Jiang Shiping, Ph.D., is a lecturer at the School of Humanities, Shanghai University of Finance and Economics. Her research interests include semiotics and cultural theory.
  • Supported by:
    the Youth Project of the National Social Science Foundation (17CXW023) and the Teaching innovation team project of Shanghai University of Finance and Economics (20161103397)

PDF (PC)

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摘要： 在消费的文化史上，奢侈消费一直作为异项被标出，而文本上及名称上的双向标出性正是其不断向前发展并颠覆奢侈自身的文化动力。奢侈消费经历了两次大众化过程，奢侈的形态与内涵两次更新，其文本的标出性亦在变动。在物消费时代，文化对奢侈的标出即是对符号的标出，奢侈的第一次大众化不仅让符号翻转成为消费文化的主流，还颠覆了传统奢侈。在符号消费时代，随着奢侈消费的第二次大众化，奢侈的文本风格弱化，原来作为异项的奢侈正在翻转。“奢侈”恶名亦决定了它的指称是标出项，污名化贯穿其整个发展史，而当前“奢侈”恶名被避开转而趋向于“善”，这意味着奢侈将更为彻底地颠覆自身。

关键词: 奢侈消费, 双向标出, 大众化, 品牌符号

Abstract:

In the history of consumption, luxury consumption is always the marked, and the cultural dynamics of its development is in the markedness of its text and name. Luxury consumption has experienced two waves of popularization, and the markedness of luxury text also changes with the two updates in the form and connotation of luxury. In the era of material consumption, the markedness of luxury is one of symbols. The first popularization of luxury not only turns symbols into the mainstream of consumer culture, but also subverts traditional luxury. With the second popularization of luxury consumption in the era of symbolic consumption, the style of luxury text is weakening, and luxury, originally the marked, is reversing. While the bad reputation of luxury determines its reference as the marked and stigmatization runs through its whole history, currently luxury tends to be described as “good”, which means that luxury will subvert itself more thoroughly.

Key words:

luxury consumption,  , dual markedness,  , popularization,  , brand symbol